VW Passat Comfort Control Module harness repair

If you own a VW Passat, and also have some funky things happening with your electronics you probably have something wrong with your Comfort Control Module (CCM), or at the very least, the wiring harness.

If your Passat has these symptoms, in part or in full, you are almost certainly in for a rough time.

  • Remote keyfob not working
  • No electric windows
  • No interior lights
  • Funky clicking noises coming from the passenger seat (RHD)
  • General strange things going on with your electrics

All of these things are controlled by a box called the Comfort Control Module (CCM) that sits in a box under the passenger floor panel (RHD). This box hold all of the key electronics that control all of the above functions. Unfortunately for us Passat drivers, there is a bloody awful problem with water getting into the foot well of that car, and ruining your fancy control electronics.

If you have, or suspect you have water coming into the car, I would highly recommend you follow this excellent guide to cleaning out the drainage holes by Ewan

After you have followed this guide, and you have removed the source of the problem, you will need to check all of your wiring, and also your CCM.

So how do you do it? I will try and give you a head start. I wasn't really prepared for what would be involved in this, and took some photos as a reminder to me... I always forget where all of those screws go.

As it turns out it wasn't too painful.

Things you will need

  • A philips head screwdriver
  • A flat head screwdriver
  • A soldering iron/cable joining kit
  • (Optional) A multimeter
  • (Optional) A VAG-COM KKL cable and a registered VAG-COM software
  • patience
  • A strong arm and a indifference to blood, sweat and tears
  • Caffeine. Tea/coffee. Whatever is your poison

EDIT:- I removed the clip connections and soldered them while trying to figure out a different issue. It is much cleaner and I have more faith in this arrangement

Step 1 - removing the panels

The CCM is under the carpet in the passenger foot well. You need to remove a couple of pieces of trim to gain access to this.

The first thing to remove is the plastic trimming at the front of the door.

First up is the panel on the left of the foot well, in front of the door. This is held in with one screw and covered by a plastic cap. Use a small blade to pop the cap off, and then remove the screw.
This panel also has some clips onto the chassis, so more brute force is needed.
This foot plate is clipped into the chassis, and comes off with a reasonable amount of force. Use a flat headed screwdriver to gently prize it up from the front of the car backwards. I started from the underside of the panel (the floor) and pushed upwards with the screw driver.
This piece of trim runs the whole length of the car, but you should only need to unclip it as far as the seatbelt.
Last in this section is the clip that hold the carpet to the floor. Although there are 2 of these, I found I only needed to remove the one closest to the door.

Step 2 - lift the carpet

The carpet is very thick, and will require a lot of force to lift it up. You will not be able to lift it all the way over to get easy access, as the whole carpet is in one huge piece. Believe me, you don't want to remove the dash to get it up... it is not worth it.
As you can see from mine, there is rather a lot of water in there. Get a cloth and mop it up. I also ran a fan heater in the car for a few hours to get the wetness out of the carpet. This makes it easier to get though the next bit without getting wet.

Step 3 - remove the CCM

You should see a large black box with a bundle of wires going into it. Put your hand in, and pull the black box out. It is not attached to anything, so it comes out easily enough.
The module is inside of this plastic box. As you can see from the photo, the box has clips on one end. Use your flat headed screwdriver to pop these open. Inside you will see the module. The wires go into two large connectors that are plugged into the CCM.
Remove the CCM from the enclosure by flexing the plastic clips away from the base of the module. be careful not to snap them off. Be gentle.
There are push clips at the top and bottom of the connector. Push these and remove the connectors. Slide the rubber seal upwards to remove the harness from the enclosure.
You should now have the harness and box separated.

Step 4 - Clean and dry the CCM

You will need to check the CCM printed circuit board (PCB) for water damage. Removal is similar to the larger enclosure. Use the flat screwdriver to pop open the clips. There are 2 at each end.
Now you should have your CCM PCB out. Be careful not to touch the sensitive electronics, as this may cause it to never work again.
Look over it for water damage. If your board look really corroded, you may be out of luck. You can replace this with a second user one, but this is beyond the scope of this guide. If you need another one, you will need to get some additional help form the vw forums. You will need a VAG-COM cable, and a license to program your new module. Luckily mine was clean.
Put it somewhere nice and warm for a couple of hours.

Step 5 - Look over your wiring harness

As you can see, my wiring harness was a goner. The water had soaked into the binding, and it had come off in huge sections.
You will see some wires are wrapped in a black tape. This is where they are factory joined to the main harness. This is where they fail. Carefully remove the wrapping from the cable from the twin connectors backwards.

Also make note of the brown ground cable connecting the the chassis, as this can cause trouble too.
Hmm... rusty. This needs sorting out
This is much more serious. This cable was in two pieces when I opened up the harness. Most definitely the source of my troubles.
Nice green connectors mean bad news. Another candidate to be replaced.

Step 6 - Replace the corroded connections

You have two options here. Re-solder the bad joints, or use some quick connect snap lock join blocks. These are like terminal blocks but a little more permanent.
I opted for the blocks as my Passat has nearly 100k on the clock, and I can't see it lasting too much longer. Buy them from Maplin electronics (UK only, sorry the rest of the world!) part code L71AZ. You get ten of these for a couple of quid, so nice and cheap.
I recommend you solder the cables, and using some heat shrink. Make sure to put your heat shrink on first!
Cut the dodgy cable back a little bit to get unrotten cable. Use the snap lock connectors to bridge the bad cables back together.
Using a multimeter make sure you have a nice connection.
Repeat for all connectors.
This is how mine looked after I replaced all of the bad connections. Not pretty, but functional.

Now plug in the (dry) CCM and see if it worked. If not keep going with the replacements until it does.

Step 7 - Put her all back together

At this point my camera had run out of juice. Sorry! Anyway, we are nearly done.

Get some good waterproof tape and bind it all back up. I went a little crazy with mine and wrapped it up nice and tight, leaving nothing exposed.

Follow the first part of the guide in reverse, putting the CCM back in it's enclosure and plugging it all back in. Replace all panels you removed earlier.

Step 8 - Done!

If you have a VAG-COM KKL cable, plug in and test the CCM (they call it the convenience control module). You should see a button for faults. Click this and see what happens. Hopefully you will come back clean.

Give yourself a pat on the back and curse VW for letting such a shitty design flaw get out. Whoever thought that putting the sensitive electronics under the floor panel was a good idea needs a swift kick in the knackers.

Make yourself a nice cup of tea, or have a stiff drink. You deserve it!

Main Content: 


Comfort Control Module Harness

Your brilliant HowTo helped solve my problem - Many thanks!

The circuit board it self was fine and there was no water in this area at all. Instead, my cable harness had rotted on one bullet connector. I cleaned up the wires and soldered in a 2inch length of multi-strand electrical cable to extend and rejoin them.


The electric windows (all of them), boot lock and remote control fob all worked again.

Many thanks for your help and article - this has undoubtedly saved me hundreds of pounds at a dealership!

Convenience Control Module

Where do I start, this is a bit long winded, but worth the wait….

Back in August 2008, my alarm started going off at all hours of the day and night and often I would be driving along the road with the alarm sounding as I went. After several days of checking fuses and relays etc I booked it into a reputable VW specialist in Totton, who proceeded to charge me £75.00 for the privaledge of telling me it was probably the Convenience Control Module (CCM). At a cost of £207.00 I could not afford one at the time. As the days and weeks past my electric windows stopped working and remote gave up, interior lights stopped and clicking came from the passenger foot well. On finding this website I began to do some DIY and located the looms under the passenger foot well everything that was supposed to be there was there. Unfortunately there was no corrosion, I wish there had been.

This is where it gets better. It is now October 2008 and I am threaders now, so I speak to the original garage that did the diagnostics and they were going to charge me £337.00 to purchase and “program” the CCM. I then rang VW Parts department in Southampton and ordered the CCM at a cost of £207.00, they then diverted me to the VW servicing department who then told me it required programming at 2 hours work that will be £275.00 fitting, VAT, and labour. I nearly fainted and told them that I was not interested in their high charges and that I would seek fitting elsewhere.

At this point I rang another reputable garage in Durrington, who had helped me out in the past with another problem, they were going to charge me £40.00 + VAT, that’s better so I booked it in. I collected the CCM from VW parts and connected it up, the windows worked perfectly and the interior lights worked fine. The remote and alarm obviously needed programming so I waited until the Saturday morning for the inevitable “programming”.

Nearly finished. I waited at the garage whilst they took it in and after 10 mins returned and asked for my spare key, which of course I did not bring. They said therefore that they could not program the CCM etc, however, I could do it myself… What? I said. All you need to do is place one key in the ignition whilst using the other one to lock the car whilst pressing the lock button for about 5 seconds and then do this with the unlock button also for 5 seconds and then repeat with the other key.

They didn’t charge me for the advice or the 10 mins they had already spent on it. I returned home and “programmed” the CCM and the remote works fine and the alarm works fine, everything works great. I was livid and angry that the 10 seconds worth of work could have cost me £275.00 by VW who said it would take 2 hours worth of labour.

I realise that they have to make a living but that is taking the biscuit surely. If this helps just one person then it is worthwhile.


If water still comes in!!!

If you find that the water still comes in even after clearing the drain holes and fixing the pollen filter seals, and you have a factory fitted sunroof then check your drain tubes. Yes I found on my 1999 Passat saloon that water was getting in behind the multi connect housing which is located at the bottom of the front passenger door pillar, behind the plastic cover. (The same could happen the drivers side too) I presume one of the previous owners, did as instructed online, to put a wire down the drain tube to keep it clear of leaves and seeds etc, and promptly poked a hole through he tube somewhere down the far end. I have also notice water getting in through he drivers door inner panel. Again some pervious owner must of taken this panel off and not ensure the seal was good before reinstalling.

I was able to prove this without taking the car to bits, by testing with the garden water hose, and a jug of water.

To fixed the problem I aim to: Place a wire cable down the tube from the sunroof end, so as I have a cable running out both ends. The idea is to aid reassembly. I then aim to remove the nipple, which exits inside the door shut, just above and behind the main rubber grommet that carries the cables for the door. The cable I put down the sunroof drain tube exit here, and I aim to have about half a metre of excess cable to slide the nipple down and off. I then aim to try and measure the inner tube diameter; (if anyone knows this then please respond to this post) I will then purchase a tube bigger than this to slide over the old tube inside. This will save on a massive bill to remove the sunroof and replace the tubes. I aim to slide the second tube up and over the old one all the way to the top, just in case, and will trim off the lower end and glue or fix in some way the new tube to the old nipple. I hope to do this without removing the door, but it is tight, and I am not going to struggle for hours trying. If I have to I will remove the door.

I then aim to check the drives side making sure no water has entered, and if so I will make good the drives side if necessary.

CCM Location on 2002 UK Passat 1.8T

I also have problems with my fuel flap and tailgate release not working when operated with the door, am i correct in thinking that the instructions given for ccm removal are for a left hand drive usa model, if so would miny ccm be located on the right hand side as mine is right hand drive, and wow this captcha thing is really hard to work out 6 attemts now

Thanks very much

We ran into this problem last month...

I ended up purchasing a new CCM from eBay only to discover that it still didn't cure the problems and was getting close to booking it into the Garage.

A friend on mine found this HOW TO on Friday and sent over the link, so I thought sod that, let’s have a look at the solder...

After spending a bit of time going through the wires we found three broken joints and had a go at soldering them up. Connected the battery back up and hey presto, it all works again.

The VW dealer didn't have a clue what was causing it, make you wonder hey. WHAT A CRAP DESIGN..

Thanks very much for your HOW TO, if you send me your address I'll send you a pint.



Convenience Control Module

Thanks for all your help on this matter, i am goint to post another part to the CCM for everyone can see.

kind rgds

Oh thank you Master Baz!

I live in France and run a VW Passat Estate. Last year the drivers door window went belly-up followed by the remaining 3 in the last month. I also had a sopping wet carpet through the winter. I trawled the internet looking for possible answers and came across your site and another 'wierdlittlebiscuit.com'. Between the 2 sites I have just sorted all problems mentioned above. I would like to send you a big hug and a massive thank you for saving a lot of unwanted expenditure and trips to the garage. The internet surely is a powerful mother sometimes. Thanks again. Rich


The alarm, central locking, and windows all started failing on my 1999 Passat. Following the directions on your post I also found a broken cable (blue and red) which when reconnected fixed everything. Thanks to you post.

Thanks a million this

Thanks a million this website undoubtedly saved me hundred or thousands of dollars at the crooked dealership + a tow. 1 wire was corroded and broken. unfortunately I did not realize that you were writing this from Europe at first and your passenger side is the opposite from our here in the U.S. Minor set back. :)
After putting back together the wrong side of the car and pulling apart the right side i found the bloody bastard. cleaned it up put it back together and she started right up. Once again Thanks!!!!!!!!!

passat ccm repair......

many thanks for your excellent post..just bought a passat with no electric windows/interior lights working( the guy was honest and no mechanic....everything else was sweet).

thanks to your excellent post and a few hours this afternoon with some wire and the trusty soldering iron........problem solved.

if i could send you a few beers via email i would............thanks again v

Passat Comfort Module

Brilliant article, I was about to scrap my Passat after eight years, thinking it had passed its sell-by date. The car has done 210,000 miles and still drives impeccably.

All the listed faults were there, centre locking, wet carpet, wilful windows, interior lights interrupting themselves and alarming alarm anytime I opened the drivers door without checking the hatch door was unlocked. The VW agent had no clue about these problems, which, from what I have read on the net, are to be found on thousands of Passats. Then I found your article and opened up the footwell.

You say that nothing holds the black box in place but on mine there is a wide plastic securing nut under the box, so you have to pull the box forward to clear the slot.

As anticipated I found two open-ended pinch cable connectors that shade of green that corroded copper goes - one came away when I lifted it out. Spldered back together, wrapped in insulating tape and now no problems, except the remote locking keyfob still doesnt work, so I'll try new batteries in it. I can live without the remote - have done for two years now!

Many thanks again Barry.



I cant thank you enough for creating this. The water had been in the back passenger well before and i cleared it and dried it not realising the CCM was under the front seat. The first cause was due to blocked drain holes under the battery [see here for tip to clear this http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/] and I though I was ok yet a few months later was back again. I believe it is now also caused by the pollen filter leaking [see here http://www.kelsey-forums.co.uk/cgi-bin/cmm/YaBB.pl?num=1128367727/10 and here http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/cabinfilter/] .

i managed to get the carpet up without having to remove the seat using your directions [though did get abit heavy with the bit over the doorstep still nothing superglue wont cure :-)] and it was soaking. The CCM unit was floating in water and was sloshing around inside. I managed to remove this and keep upright while I got the top off and let the water out. No board damage and onlysome slight corrosion by a couple of pins on one of the plugs/sockets. I checked through the cable and although soaked the connections all look sealed in heatshrink and through that no green. yet to check the earth though.

Dried out box and CCM unit and cleaned plug/socket so thought would try. yippee it works the keys open/close ok and system still works.

I am going to leave unit out until i get a chance to look at the pollen filter seal and of course need to dry the carpet out completely, not easy in this weather.

Thanks again for such a good description and when we find the name of the pillock who thought of putting this kind of kit under a seat that will get soaked we can all have a hit eh?

All the best


Wet Floor but Dry CCU and Harness OK. Electrics Still Broken

Thanks for the description it worked well for an amateur like me.
Though the floor was soaking, the CCU was dry and as far as I can see the harness is OK.
All doors will still not open other than drivers with the key. Electric mirrors not working, central locking not working.
Any other ideas ?

Try checking

The plugs behind the passenger footwell A post cover, as they are prone to corrosion after suffering water ingress from the pollen filter. Simply remove the wires and solder them 1 at a time so the wirig does not get mixed up.

I think i'm getting there just stuck with a few wires..

Hi, I bought a VW Passat when you turn the ignition on all lights on the dash just flash and won't start, I have the clicking noise to the left, no e/w or remote locking, I pulled the wiring harness out, there is a few red/black wires broken and I don't know which wire goe's where, so if you could help with that it would be very much appreciated. There was a few other wires that were damaged which I fixed them that solved e/w, remote locking... :) But dash lights still flashing and wont start, i'm sure it's these few red/black wires are causing the problems.....

Also Check (Related)

Having suffered many of the issues listed above I was convinced that my problem would be down to the water ingress on the ccm and it's harness; after checking the harness and CCM and finding both intact with no damage (although the carpet was sodden wet) I moved my attention to the wiring blocks fitted to the harness located behind the passenger footwell cover on the B post, I instantly noticed green corrosion in and around the connectors and as soon as I moved them wires started breaking off.

I decided to arm myself with a soldering iron and a stack of heatshrink and simply removed the plugs and soldered the wires stright through bypassing the plugs, result is that all the electrical issues and ABS/ESP failure are now rectified and I am now enjoying fault free motoring.

So thanks to the OP for pointing me in the right direction, would be worth while stopping the water leak at source to by sealing the pollen filter housing on the Passat (clearly a recall issue that VW fail to accept).

Thank god for these threads and google!

We were having some trouble with our locks and couldn't understand why then our alarm was going off then the interior lights stopped working. We just couldn't understand what was wrong. I went to buy new batteries for the fob but that didn't work. Checked fuses and all was ok. Then googled and found this web page. Took up the passenger flooring and immediately saw that a wire was loose. The two wires were then put back together and instantly everything is working again. All I can say is that you so much BAZ for making the effort by putting up these photographs and helpful comments you really saved us alot of money and everything is working as it should be yipeee! Thank god for these threads and people taking their time to add their helpful tips and for google!

Thank god for these threads and google!

We were having some trouble with our locks and couldn't understand why then our alarm was going off then the interior lights stopped working. We just couldn't understand what was wrong. I went to buy new batteries for the fob but that didn't work. Checked fuses and all was ok. Then googled and found this web page. Took up the passenger flooring and immediately saw that a wire was loose. The two wires were then put back together and instantly everything is working again. All I can say is that you so much BAZ for making the effort by putting up these photographs and helpful comments you really saved us alot of money and everything is working as it should be yipeee! Thank god for these threads and people taking their time to add their helpful tips and for google!

Baz you're an absolute

Baz you're an absolute genius! I've just spent a couple of hours stripping and replacing joints and all of my electrical gremlins seem to have gone away.

This time last week I was getting ready to send the passat to the great scrapyard in the sky I was that sick of niggling faults. I can't believe Volkswagen's design is so bad, the wiring was shot to pieces. I'm suprised anything was working at all. Anyway, you've made my day, the car can stay for the time being. Your post has been much appreciated! I think you've just saved me a small fortune, thanks again.

Passat VR5 Electrical Fault

This car has been in the family from new. It's been a great motor until last August, picked her up from the airport compound....no remote locking, no interior lights, no door step lights, no electric windows, no electric mirrors, no nice orange lights on my switches....then the worse thing of the lot......can't open my boot.............lovely when it's pittling down with rain. Dick Turpin at the VW dealer wanted it for over a week, it will be probably be the "Brain" under the passenger seat..........a million dollars for the brain and the labour. Anyway, purchased a Haynes manual which had a brilliant wiring diagram in it (REMOVE THE NEGATIVE FROM THE BATTERY), passenger seat out (13mm socket, short extension, pozi drive for screws on runner trim), remove the air bag lead, door step trim off and carpet spragged up with a stick. Removed brain box (slide forwards on a dowel). Noticed some copper sulphate on the harness and floor pan, removed the cloth tape. There are two taped joints, where one wire goes into two. RED/BLUE wire broken and YELLOW/GREEN wire broken. Soldered in a new piece on each and taped up. There she was! everything working again. Noticed a grommet had been hit by something under the car, breaking the seal, this may have let in some moisture. Thumped it back in and gave it some mastic on both sides. These taped joints must be on every Passat from the factory as we've had her from new, a right bodge for a £23k car in 1999. Also, boot light has always been an intermittent git, spot on now! I hope this helps someone out there like this forum has helped me and it's stopped the dealers "nailing my hat on the buggers!"

Passat wiring harness repair

Outstanding info and pics, have been wrestling with elec. windows for weeks now.
50 years taking cars and m/bikes apart, but still got stuck with this problem. Followed your guide, and surprise surprise the five wire power junction that serves the windows was almost corroded away, they are now seriously soldered together and wrapped in rubber. Don't get this sort of stuff in the Haynes Manuals !!

Sincere thanks for this guide.

1993 passatt comfort module location

well i have been having issues with the locks and dome light and windows so it looks like the comfort module, so i tore up the carpet on the drivers and passengers side, looked under the seat.....Ahhhhhhhh
no module (lord help me jesus); anyone know where this is located on the 1993 passatt because it is not on the floor.
thanks for all the information though

You have saved the day.. and tons of money!

I was going bonkers trying to figure out why I would lose my front headlights, heater blowers, wipers, and blinkers everytime the temp outside dipped below freezing! Talk about strange!! Plus, now that winter has arrived, this was happening every day. It was funny, once the car warmed up, in about 40 minutes or so, everything started working again.
I saw your Blog about the CCM/Wiring Harness and remembered that not too long ago, I remembered finding the passenger rug all wet. I thought it strange at the time, but everything was dry now, or at least so I thought. But when I pulled the rug and all that padding back... OH My God!! Everything was soaked under there and I found standing water all over the place.
I dried everything out,(hours), and replugged all of the connections. Last night temps were into the teens so I left the car outside all night as a test.

EURIKA!!! It's fixed!! Lights... Blinkers... Wipers.... and above all HEAT!!

And to tell you the truth, I was days away from canning this car and buying a Toyota!

Your guide is pretty good

Your guide is pretty good and very helpful. I still don't know if this will help since i am not near an amateur in fixing a car but I hope this will. last night was raining a lot and water was leaked inside my 2003 Passat. When I first looked at the car all the yellow lights from the outside were on, but not flashing, just on. then, when I tried to open the locks with the control it did not work so I had to use the key. So when I opened the door I notice that there was a mini lagoon on the Driver's side from where the pedals start to the backseat, but no water was on the Passenger side. After I pumped off all the water from inside the car I turn it on and it start normal but the windows were not working and the car was telling me that a door was open even though it was close. I took the car for a ride because the battery was dying and suddenly everything was working fine except for the open door. then, the lights inside the car where flashing and started to make a strange noise inside the car like if it was honking the horn but it wasn't that. Now the doors won't open with the control, the windows work fine. I still get that open door and open trunk, but I cannot open the trunk nor the fuel mini door (buttons don't do nothing). And the lights inside don't turn on. Will this guide help me?

Thanks Baz, you haved saved me a lot of aggravation

I just registered to say thanks for your help in solving my alarm problems. My VW 2001 TDI estate alarm was going off at all times of the day and night, so much so, that I got to know a few new neighbours who had also noticed my problem. I found your instructions here, after VW told me the CCM was showing a defect and would need time and a lot of money to fix it. Your clear directions solved my problem very quickly and I recommend that anyone who can hold a screwdriver can do this repair themselves. Thanks again Baz

poor Passat electric

Whoever you are - you're great! One thing - while writing for Britons do not forget about folks from other "right side traffic"
hemisphere. The CCM is always on the left side of the car - which for you is a passenger's seat for me a driver's one. Like you, I did not have to replace/repare CCM . a set of broken red-blue wires cleaned, extended by other piece of wire, soldered and clipped, return my lock doors, mirrors, fuel tank door and a good humour (is it British English spelling?). I saved a bunch! Thanks. George

Left Drive models

Just bought a 1999 Passat estate for $1,400.00 (book value over $3,000.00) because no one could find the problem withthe windows, locks, lights, etc. Pulled up the carpet and found the problem. I assume that some of the splices are many wires spiced to one or two of the same colour. FYI Left drive models the CCM is on the drivers side. Thanks for the post.

Mr. Waj


I HAVE A 01 PASSAT GLX WITH CONTROLS ON THE STEERING WHEEL. None of them work. Radio,cruise,horn, and temp. The abs light is not on. Could this be the fault of the ccm or wiring.


Passat 1999 1.8 saloon, auto, standard model

Great Post, very useful. However in my case I found the water in the rear passanger foot well, the front footwell was dry. So suspected the pollen filter casing seal had gone, as suggested by other posts seen online. The repair kit from VW was noly £14 prox. Fitted and tested with water hose locally around the seal. However, I DID NOT test, with full pressure, with water running off the roof and down the windscreen. When it rained next the rear passanger footwell was full of water again. But before I could do anything a large click from behind me one morning, found the interior lights out, rear doors locked, electric windows locked, sunroof locked. Luckerly the drivers and passanger doors were still working.

It was at this point when I found this post!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fixing the water leak was the priority. The only other possible problem was a drain hole under the battery. When clogged with silt or leaves, water can fill to a level where it finds a large rubber gromet in the bulkhead, just in front of the passanger seat. This is where the water gets in. Conducted water test again, but with full mains pressure on, and found water collecting under the batter, it was draining but very slowly, this where I was falled before. Removed battery, removed battery mounting bracket, and found water drain hole full of silt. Cleared and washed down with water hose.

Checked fuses and found number 6 fuse blown, found red/blue cable joint under carpet in front foot well broken, due to corrosion. Check wiring diagram all seemed to be associated with rear door central locking. CCM unit was also found with water in it, and some corrosion on main multi plugs. Made reapirs and dried out CCM unit. However the doors are still locked. Perhaps my repair was not so good, or the CCm unit is damaged. Will try again, have now removed passanger seat to improve access.

Will keep you posted.

vw electronics

many many thanks ive had no interior lights in my vw for 2 years my central locking didnt work and today i went to put fuel in but couldnt open my fuel flap so because i knew id have to remorgage my house to get it fixed at my local garage i looked on the web saw your page and within 20 mins had fixed all the cars electrical faults 4 or 5 wires corroded through . now sat here smuggly drinking a pint of lager i raise my glass to you sir baz again many many thanks

VW Passat Comfort Control Module harness repair

Thank you very much ! I found the CCM ok but the wires were corroded. I used the 12V soldering iron join the wires and used heat shrink for insulation.

Thanks a lot !

More help....

Great guide. Looking to tackle my car this weekend. Just one question. Will I need to look at the wiring in the rear of the car?? The water I had was in the back passenger footwell and was wondering if the wiring in the rear would need looking at too

Any advice will be helpful


CCM Passat 2002

This is a great guide, best on the internet by far. I've spent hours and no forum could give my a proper guide on how to remove the carpat and I only managed the break one thing, the door skirt lol. The previous owner had pulled out the 2 connectors but I've reconnected them and resealed the pollen filter and its going 100%. Thanks a million.

brown ground cable corrosion

I have a faulty CCM so I checked my wires and they are fine seems like water didn't get in, but my brown ground cable is white and the wire seems to corroded at the bolt part, how do I fix this?

CCM replacement

Legend. After getting my car totally full on the nearside all the electrics packed up one bu one. Was about to bin the car when I found this guide. In two days have a breaker's yard ccm fitted this morning and all the electrics work again except the boot release and central locking. Any advice on how to cure this. Also the central locking now auto locks when I pull away which it never did in the previous 6 years before I sent the car swimming. Do I need to look elsewhere for the fault?